The project
The textile sector is undergoing a profound transformation. Growing waste volumes, the declining quality of collected garments, difficulties in reusing and recycling them, and new regulatory obligations are changing the rules of the game.
But are public authorities ready to manage this new landscape? Do waste management organisations have the tools they need to adapt their business models?
As part of the European Fashion Forward project, Spora is developing a specialised training programme for the Waste Agency of Catalonia, targeting two essential groups: public authorities and textile waste management organisations.
The project brings together regulatory knowledge, strategic insight and business management tools through audiovisual self-learning resources designed to make knowledge more accessible and improve decision-making.
Textile circularity depends on more than new regulations or technologies. It also needs organisations equipped to make it happen.
The challenge
Mandatory separate collection of textile waste represents a structural change for public authorities and waste management organisations.
Municipalities must adapt their collection systems, understand producers’ new responsibilities and ensure traceable services focused on reuse and recycling.
At the same time, many waste management organisations face a complex situation. For years, they have provided services free of charge, financing their activities through the sale of reusable clothing. Today, declining material quality, saturated second-hand markets and rising costs are calling this model into question.
To better understand this situation, Spora brought together organisations including Tapis, Fundació Horitzó, Solidança, Formació i Treball, Fundació Engrunes and Humana.
The meeting identified shared needs: understanding actual costs, professionalising bids, improving negotiations with public authorities, strengthening sales channels and exploring new forms of collaboration.
Moving from a model that depends on the value of collected clothing to a system that recognises the true value of the service.
The approach
Spora approaches training from two complementary perspectives: those who plan and ensure service delivery, and those who provide the service and make it viable.
For public authorities, the aim is to build a comprehensive understanding of the textile sector, from environmental and social impacts to the regulatory framework, collection models and service monitoring.
For waste management organisations, the focus is on professionalisation: understanding costs, developing competitive proposals, negotiating and improving commercial strategies for reuse.
The content draws on needs identified with the sector and connects environmental, economic and social dimensions. A circular system can only be sustainable if the organisations that keep it running are sustainable too.
Methodology
From sector knowledge to decision-making tools.
The project is delivered through audiovisual self-learning resources, supported by complementary materials and self-assessment tools. The methodology combines:
– Sector and regulatory analysis, covering the textile value chain, environmental and social impacts, extended producer responsibility and reserved public procurement.
– Participatory assessment, through a session with waste management organisations to identify economic, operational and commercial challenges.
– Training for public authorities, focusing on collection models, costs, traceability, data management and the regulatory framework.
– Business capacity building for operators, covering cost control, commercial bids, negotiation, second-hand shop management, corporate identity, online sales and communication.
– Production of audiovisual content, turning technical knowledge into accessible, actionable explanations.
– Complementary tools and materials, including practical examples, resources for preparing technical and financial proposals, references and self-assessment questionnaires.
The digital format supports independent learning and allows the content to be reused to train new teams and organisations.
Value for participants
Not simply more information, but better criteria for managing a sector in transition.
For public authorities, the programme provides the knowledge needed to plan, procure and oversee textile waste collection and management services.
For waste management organisations, it offers tools to identify costs, make the economic case for services, develop competitive bids and pursue new commercial opportunities.
The training also highlights the social contribution of many of these organisations. Employment integration, local presence and preparation for reuse are benefits that must be measured, communicated and reflected in the value of the service.
The project thus helps establish a shared language between public authorities and operators, supporting progress towards more transparent, professional and sustainable models.
Lessons learned
Working with waste management organisations reveals a contradiction: while the need to collect and properly treat textile waste is increasing, the revenue streams that have traditionally supported this activity are weakening.
Collecting more does not necessarily mean recovering more value. If material quality declines and commercial outlets are limited, increasing collection volumes can also raise costs and threaten organisational viability.
This reality calls for a broader perspective. Circularity cannot be achieved simply by improving collection or introducing recycling technologies. It also requires recognising service costs, strengthening collaboration, developing markets for recovered materials and preserving the social value of organisations.
The project confirms that public authorities and operators need different types of knowledge, but a shared understanding of the system.
Because a value chain can only be transformed when all its stakeholders have the skills and conditions needed to evolve together.
The circular transition also requires a transformation of the economic models that sustain reuse.